Saturday, January 4, 2014

Circumcision Celebration - September 2013



Differences exist region to region – 4 hours north (in Manakara) there is a large celebration once every 7 yrs. But in my area, a family or group of families, will get together in order to pay for the Doctor to come to the town.

The first circumcision party I went to was in early September, but this was just kicking off the season! I went to the neighboring town with my Malagasy supervisor and his coworkers. We had missed the actual procedure, but the party was in full swing, lasting for 2 full days, ending on Sunday.
We greeted the president and important people of the town, and gave an envelope of money to them. This was called “atody ny akoho” or egg of a chicken. The amount dictates how much alcohol and food the hosts will provide for you. For example, today our donation of over 10,000 Ar dictated a 1.5 L bottle of rhum, bottle of beer, and bottle of Limonade (Bon Bon Anglais) with some plates of fried fish. The women beckoned me outside to dance to the blaring loud music, while the men sat in the small huts and talked and drank. The women’s excitement was let loose by the whoops and hollers that I received, and of course many wide-eyed stares.

Later this month, I attended a circumcision ceremony in my own town, 5 children were circumcised and all between the ages of 3 and 8 yrs old. Did I mention there is no anesthesia involved in the procedure?! The celebration began on a Thursday evening. A generator was brought and 3 light bulbs were strung up over the wooden frames built between a cluster of houses. I only danced a bit in the lit area, then was beckoned to join a group of women dancing in a house (when I say house I mean open floor with woven mat -no furniture- and cooking corner where ashes and a grill reside). We danced in a circle, and I greeted the leader of my town. Everyone was very faly “happy” and many extended family members where there and interested in who I was and what I did. The party raged all night.
The next morning the procedure was underway. I heard yells of “don’t be scared” chanted in unison by the women, which carried across town to me in my bed, at the early hour of 5am.
I visited around 7am, congratulating (shaking hands with the boys) and sharing coffee with the many people visiting. I danced a little and talked with people about the absence of this type of celebration in America until a fellow volunteer arrived. He had never seen this cultural celebration so he joined me in giving the traditional “atody ny akoho” and we danced with my neighbors and kids until the generator was turned off, as twilight approached.  
We retired to my house across town but the townspeople drank into the night, each small hut housing numerous guests.

The following weekend I was invited to a circumcision in the neighboring town south of my town. It was a large celebration, more money involved than what had occurred in my town. The surgery was done in Farafangana, the closest large town, and the celebration was carried out the next day.
Small paper invitations were distributed; I think I was invited as a courtesy, being the only white person for several kilometers. Four other people from my town were also invited to the home and hotely/epicerie owned by the wealthy family. I suggested we walk, leaving around 9am, taking us 1 1/2hrs to get there on foot.

We entered the house, gave the atody ny akoho” and then were led outside to a shaded table, next to the open dirt courtyard where many women were dancing within clouds of dust they were kicking up with each step. We were given soda, beer, and homemade moonshine (toka gasy). My table scanned the crowds and told me about the apparently well-known pastors and educators in attendance.

Being the only white person here, I was called out to the courtyard/dance floor by the local women, and danced with them briefly, as I didn’t know any of them. We watched processions of women enter the gated yard, holding a stick high for everyone to see the paper money that was attached to it. The women sang (or rather chanted, yipped and yelped) showing off the money they would give to the family. This I found out is called “maromanga” which translates to “a lot of blue”, and did not happen in my town. One group of women presented about 30.000 Ar and the other, 50.000 Ar (about). After entering the home of the family they exited with bottles of beer and bon bon Anglais (sweet soda) again singing and dancing in a circle throughout the courtyard.

The final circumcision party of the “season” that I attended was in my town, which translates to: a small affair. Three brothers underwent the procedure and the party lasted only one day.  I awoke at 4am to the calls of women running up and down the street for cold water…for the procedure I assumed. I congratulated and danced for only the morning, and other people visited but only briefly. People told me this family did not have enough money to throw a large party so that’s why it was so short and not many people hung around. The boys lay in a corner of the house with a crisp white sheet (showing it was purchased just for this occasion) draped over their spread legs. This was a shield against the flies and kept the naked boys covered but cool as the day warmed up. They were given biscuit crackers and women sat cooing over them, trying to make them as comfortable as possible.

From what I could gather from asking people in my town, this tradition is carried out to prevent disease, but I’m suspicious it may be a practice the French instilled in the Malagasy.
In other areas the uncle of the boy actually eats the foreskin once cut free. How glad I am that this is not a practice in my area!!