Sunday, July 13, 2014

Happy 4th! in Madagascar

I picture my friends and family barbecuing, playing frisbee or soccer in a park, along with crowds of other Americans taking the day to relax. I imagine people sporting red white and blue shirts, hats and even socks (as my dad proudly wears) to show their patriotism and passing by houses with flags hung high. 
These images swim through my head, not as a longing to be back in the US but as a fond remembrance as I search for traditions and stories to share with my Malagasy friends and acquaintances. This is my train of thought as I stroll down the paved road which splits my town in half, leading to the market and the sole Epicerie (1room store stocked with staples such as rice and coca cola). I have a troop of 10 kids beside and behind me, chanting "USA" but sounding more like "oooo S ahh". I am making my rounds congratulating my neighbors and fellow visitors on the arrival of American Independence Day! To mirror the Malagasy custom, this greeting is exchanged then a few kisses on the cheek. People were mostly surprised when I extended my hand to them but interested in the fact today was an American holiday. Most conversation centered around how old America is, in comparison to Madagascar whose Independence on June 26th marked its 54th year. I also explained similarities between our country's celebrations such as singing the National Anthem, playing games, dancing and spending time with family.   

I utilized a bag of American Flag button pins which people happily received. I helped many of them pin it to their shirt, explaining blue should always be at the top, some probably never having seen any other flag besides their own. These pins had been passed down to me from a volunteer who had just completed his 2 year service; as is PCV custom to 'scavenge' those possessions no longer needed by volunteers returning to the wondrous 1st world. These most often being nonperishable foodstuffs, highly prized here in the 3rd. 
After my walk-around I held a "Bon fety" in my house. Following Malagasy custom this time, I invited the women's group I have worked closely with, my neighbors & the people I talk to the most for a taste of American holiday..or at least what I could throw together for the occasion. This turned out to be Apple cider (instant 'just add water' packets thanks to another PCV who left the country a year ago) and some sweet crackers I had bought in my banking town 30k to the north of my village earlier that day. 
First thing first, a short speech welcoming everyone and thanking them for coming to share the holiday with me. I expressed my desire to be in my village this day, because they are my family & this is my home. I received a round of applause & then the doctor, neighbor & Epicerie owner gave speeches, followed by a member of the women's group as well. I was wished good health and thanked for being in the village& that I would be missed when I was gone. The epicerie owner said they are happy for this day of American Independence as well because the American & Malagasy peoples have a partnership & hope to continue working together for many years to come. Barack Obama was also wished longevity and good health, which I said I would pass the message along to him.
Because I only arrived back to my site earlier in the day, and was walking around most of the daylight hours, 12 adults and at least 5 kids were now crammed into my small house, all of us sitting on my floor lit by candlelight eating the biscuits and apple cider. I played the National Anthem for them and talked about what most people in the US would be doing today. With every drop and crumb finished they thanked me collectively & wished me goodnight. My unusual but fulfilling Independence Day had come to a close, just my cat & I now staring at each other. I don't know how much of my stories or descriptions of the US & its customs will be remembered but I hope at some point in the future if they see an American Flag they will at least have some memory of that white girl who hung around speaking broken Malagasy but attempting to show respect of the Malagasy customs & providing even just a passing glance of the world of America and its culture. 

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